Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Restaurant Review: Glitretind

Just when I thought I couldn't have a better meal in my life, along came this one.  We made a late reservation at Glitretind-Stein Eriksen Lodge in Park City, Utah only after being turned away from Log Haven.

This was the first time I had been to the Stein Eriksen Lodge, what a beautiful place.  Roaring fireplace, logs, low lighting, it was perfect.  I was accompanied this time by my beautiful wife, yes the Vegetarian.

We were sat fairly quickly, and had a nice quiet table away from the kitchen.  Being in Utah sometimes you forget that there is actually classy places to dine and be served.  Working in a kitchen for a living, sometimes there is nothing better that being served food by someone else, not having to do any of the work yourself.

Our server was a nice woman named Sarah, she was hands down the best server I have ever met.  She had a genuine knowledge of food, and announced everything that was brought to our table with excitement and a smooth tongue.  She wasn't reading it off a card, she really knew what she was talking about.  We were presented with a small dinner menu, just the kind I like.  I don't like the 87 page menus of most chains and wanna-be restaurants.  I want a place that does a few things perfectly, not a place that does 126 things poorly.

My wife, the Vegetarian, selected an Heirloom Tomato Salad w/ local feta cheese, pistachios, basil and salt.  The presentation of the salad was very simple, wedges of room temperature tomatoes on a long rectangular plate with the cheese and pistachio dust.  It was good, even to me.  I had the Dungeness Crab Vichyissoise, and ohhh was it good.  It was presented in a large bowl with  a pile of lump crab meat in the middle.  After the server set the bowl down she poured the Leeky Potatoe goodness around the crab.  Also in the broth were chunks of Boniato Yam and Micro Parsley.  Very good, top notch.  Almost better than the starters was the bread that came with them.  There was an assortment of house-made breads from Roasted Garlic to a House Cracker Bread that were all warm and delicious.  With the bread came a small dish of the best tasting butter I have ever had.  It was just creamed butter, but had a sprinkling of Black Hawaiian Sea Salt across the top.  Butter and salt, a beautiful coupling.  There was also a tasty dish of French Sea Salt on the table for seasoning.  The Chef forgot nothing when it comes to the details of this place.

The service throughout the meal was perfect, there was ample time in between dishes to digest each course and salivate over the goodness.  After the starter course the staff brought out an Amuse Bouche, a simple steamed purple potato round with a piped goat cheese mousse on top.  This was again garnished very simply with micro greens.  One piece each, just enough to keep the taste buds working.  My wife had a Pea and Carrot Risotto for the entree.  For not having meat, it was very good.  Obviously made to order, with perfect cheese flavor and appropriate salt.  The highlight of her dish was the tasty little olive oil poached mini globe carrots served on the side.  These things are crazy expensive, but it made the meal for her.  Such quality ingredients in a simple risotto really was good.  A nice quenelle of mint pesto on the side was also a nice touch to liven her plate up.

My entree deserves a separate blog, a medal, an accommodation, and a blue ribbon.  It wasn't on the menu, it was the dinner special of the night.  Our server Sarah's description of the entree was as good as can be.  It was medallions of Elk Tenderloin.  It was kind of like in Jerry Maguire, "She had me at Elk, she had me at Elk."  When the Elk came out from the kitchen, I swear there was a shining white light following it.  It looked so good, very rare and seared perfect.  Every bite of that meat was better than the last.  There was a kind little puddle of Sweet Purple Carrot Jus beneath it, really good.  Equally delicious was the hand-made Sweet Potato Gnocchi it was astride.  Perfect portion, perfectly executed, I was extremely satisfied.  Far different from the gamey bits of Elk I have had before.

Dessert for my wife was three scoops of Pistachio Gelato made by the Pastry Chef that morning.  Very creamy, a nice ending for her.  I had a Sesame Mousse that was different than what I imagined.  The plate was composed of three small bittersweet chocolate cake rounds, two small pipings of sesame mousse, sesame brittle, golden tapioca pearls and a quenelle of orange vanilla ice cream.  Strange flavors that all worked perfect together.  The plate wasn't sauced or drizzled with 12 neon colored sauces, there was no sparklers, no candles, no pre-made insignificant garnishes.  The brain of the Pastry Chef is genius, this was one of the best desserts I have ever had.

As if the above wasn't enough, a small profiterole (cream puff) was brought out alongside our check.  I assume to help ease the pain of such a large bill.  For me it was a Thank You from their staff to me and my wife for enjoying their hard work.  I paid the bill without even looking at the amount, double the amount of money we paid would still have been a deal for me.  An excellent meal, one of the best of my life.  Vegetables for my wife, bloody game meat for me.  Executive Chef Zane Holmquist, the Pastry Chef, Sarah, and whoever else had a hand in this meal deserves my highest marks.  You really can get good food in Utah.